Tuesday, July 14, 2020

E. B. Green: The Man Who Built Buffalo (1986 Gusto cover story)

The Dun Building 

By happy coincidence, the May 16, 1986, issue of Gusto that contained the Third Lost Expedition’s final bar date also featured one of my most significant Gusto feature stories on the cover. Dare I say, it was a landmark. The subject? A major figure in local architectural history who at that time had been largely forgotten.

E. B. GREEN:
The Man Who Built Buffalo

HAD THEY not named the restaurant after him in the new Hyatt Regency Buffalo, E. B. Green would be virtually unknown in the city he did so much to shape.
        Aside from this bit of razzle-dazzle recognition, however, there’s precious little other awareness these days of the many accomplishments and incredible scope of the man who reigned as the dean of Buffalo architects for more than a half-century.
        Although Green’s finest creations – the Albright-Knox Art Gallery and the golden-domed Buffalo Savings Bank (Goldome) – stand as contemporary emblems of civic pride, his reputation is overshadowed by the visiting architectural masters who worked here.
        There are no texts on Green to match those on H. H. Richardson, who designed the majestic Buffalo State Hospital buildings on Forest Avenue; Louis Sullivan, whose Guaranty Building helped usher in the age of the skyscraper; McKim, Mead and White, who left a pair of prime classical revival mansions on Delaware Avenue at North Street, and, of course, Frank Lloyd Wright.
        Indeed, although the city’s most comprehensive architectural study, “Buffalo Architecture: A Guide,” lists Green in its biography section, it only hints at the extent of his activity, which was considerable. (See lists below.) Even architectural historians can’t be sure they’ve identified all he did here.
        Taken as a whole, Green’s work adds up to the largest and, in many ways, the most significant piece of inheritance left to the modern day from Buffalo’s golden age – from the last two decades of the 19th century to the years just following World War II, which coincidentally was the span of Green’s career.
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        The city, however, has a way of being careless with its inheritances. One of Green’s most prominent contributions to the Buffalo skyline – the Genesee Building – was on the verge of being torn down before developer Paul Snyder recast it as the Hyatt Regency.
       
Chamber of Commerce Building
Workmen presently are demolishing another of Green’s additions to the downtown silhouette – the Chamber of Commerce Building on lower Main Street. One of the roots of this unfortunate development is the city’s failure to acquire official designation of the downtown area as a historic district, with all its attendant protective regulations and tax benefits, a piece of negligence which also casts doubt on the future of one of the oldest of Green’s creations – the flatiron-shaped Dun Building at Swan and Pearl streets.
  
      The Dun Building, constructed in 1894 and 1895, was the first in a series of office towers that ultimately came to dominate the downtown landscape. Green and his original partner, William S. Wicks, had moved their practice here 10 years previously and already had some major commissions to their credit, notably the First Presbyterian Church on Symphony Circle, which echoes the Romanesque massiveness and the towers of Richardson’s hospital building at the other end of Richmond Avenue.
First Presbyterian Church
        Edward Broadhead Green was born in 1855, not in Buffalo, but in Utica. He was graduated from Cornell University in 1878 with a bachelor of architecture degree and worked in Ithaca for three years before setting up practice with Wicks in Auburn prior to coming here.
        As a profession, architecture was still in its pioneer stages at that time. It was only in 1868 that M.I.T. became the first school in America to offer it as an academic program. Prior to that, it was passed along from masters to apprentices.
        Wicks, who began his study at Cornell, gained his architecture degree from M.I.T. in 1877. Teaching there was based on the principles of the French Ecole des Beaux-Arts, which emphasized design and aesthetic considerations – with a concentration on the works of architectural masters.
        The curriculum at Cornell, meanwhile, deferred design considerations in favor of technical training, stressing the use of materials that were true to their structural purpose. Here practical knowledge came first, then style, the preferred style being Victorian Gothic. In his senior paper, Green discussed the need for an “American” architecture.
        For all that, Green and Wicks proved to be not so much innovators like Richardson or Wright, who seized on an idea and refined it, but rather synthesizers of many different styles picked up from a wide variety of sources. They were incredibly eclectic.
 
Buffalo Savings Bank 
       
As a result, the Dun Building is modeled after the New York Produce Exchange (built in 1882), using large arches as a

prominent design feature. The 1893 Market Arcade suggests London’s Burlington Arcade. The Buffalo Savings Bank, built in 1900, celebrates the neoclassicism introduced at the Chicago World’s Fair of 1893 by adapting an arched design from ancient Rome, while the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, constructed between 1900 and 1905, pays tribute to the Acropolis.
        Green, perhaps because of the two-dimensional viewpoint of Beaux-Arts, favored grand, classic facades. The Dun Building, so oddly narrow viewed from Pearl Street, stretches in a great expanse of brick on the Swan Street side. The Genesee Building also presents a broad and impressive front to Genesee Street. As for the Buffalo
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Savings Bank, its plan takes the flattened Roman archways and wraps them around a corner.
        By stressing the classical in his public buildings, Green helped turn-of-the-century Buffalo fulfill its aspirations to become the equal of the great cities of Europe. Even a structure like the Marine Trust Building at Main and Seneca, built in 1913, finds Green organizing the exterior in a reflection of the elements of a classic column (base, shaft and capital), while creating inside a dramatically grand banking room, exceeded in magnificence and size by few banks in the country at the time.
        In their downtown projects, Green and Wicks were particularly adept at designing buildings to fit odd-shaped sites. The Dun Building’s lot was perhaps the most challenging, but they also rose to the demands of the L-shaped space for the Chamber of Commerce Building and the need to put impressive fronts on both Main and Huron streets for the Buffalo Savings Bank.
        On the State University of Buffalo’s Main Street Campus, Green came close to creating an entire environment, mixing classical elements with Georgian features drawn from colleges in England and crowning his design of a half-dozen buildings there with the colonnaded Lockwood Library.
        Thanks to his prominence and his associations with the business and social leaders of the city (he was, for instance, a member of the Buffalo and Saturn Clubs and served on the board of directors of the Buffalo Fine Arts Academy from 1899 until his death in 1950), Green was often called upon to design homes for the same people for whom he built churches and office buildings.
        To compliment their aspirations to the lifestyles of European nobility, he summoned up images of Renaissance-era baronial manor houses and opulent villas along Delaware and Linwood avenues and in the Parkside neighborhood.
Clement House
        One of the finest examples of his handiwork is the former Clement House with its sumptuous music room at Delaware Avenue and Summer Street, now occupied by the local chapter of the American Red Cross.
        His grandest residential project, however, no longer exists. The home of industrialist and art patron John J. Albright on West Ferry Street between Delaware and Elmwood avenues, it was built in 1901 after fire destroyed the original Albright home and was demolished in 1934.
        An Albright family anecdote recounted by historian Austin Fox recalls how, during the fire, Albright encountered his architect among the spectators witnessing the blaze and asked him, “Well, Green, have you brought the new plans with you?”
Albright Mansion
        Executed in grey limestone, it was Green’s earliest use of the Tudor Gothic style seen in the Clement House. It had numerous gables with ornamented peaks and was designed to have two “fronts” – one of them an entrance at the end of a long driveway, the other facing the picturesque lawn and garden designed by Frederick Law Olmsted.
        Inside was a grand spiral stairway, extensive paneling in mahogany and oak, and spectacular conservatory that included artifacts from Pompeii.
        Albright also had Green design a residence for his son, Langdon, on the same site, plus a third building, the only one that still survives. It was a firehouse, intended solely to protect against a reoccurrence of the disaster that befell Albright. Ultimately deeded to the city, which designated it “Chemical No. 5,” it stands on Cleveland Avenue.
        Green’s less expensive projects, which are scattered throughout the Delaware District and the Parkside area (see box), are solid, well-thought-out, conservative Colonial Revival designs, appointed with excellent woodwork, the result of a longstanding collaboration with the local firm of Metz, Bark and Meyer, renowned worldwide for the elegance and finish of their interior hardwood decorations.
        One writer who grew up as a neighbor to a Green-designed house on Ashland Avenue, built in the early 1890s, (probably 451 Ashland) offered these impressions:
        “The house was certainly built for privacy, space for social and familial gatherings, security, the weather and for the servants who were part of the Victorian middle-class home. The house still has the original gas jets visible in places, a rather steep back stair leading from kitchen to third floor, an electric buzzer for the maid on the master bedroom wall …
        “The east bay windows allow in morning light. In spite of the presence of two high houses on either side, the house does not feel closed-in. Light enters subtly through the cylindrical dining room corner windows. The general feeling is one of brightness, especially on the first and third floors.
        “The heavy oak front door, with its cut-glass pane, brings us directly into the front hall. We face the front stairway, which elbows along the north wall. There is a large closet tucked under the stairs and the vestibule has room for boots, clothing and the mail (which in the 1890s was delivered at least twice a day).
        “The stairway has its corner landing window, bookcases on the narrow projection overlooking the first floor from the second. The interior woodwork has been painted years ago (but) it is still apparent as being of superior craftsmanship and design.”
        Green’s partner, Wicks, who served as the city’s parks commissioner from 1897 to 1900, while Olmsted was putting the finishing touches on South Park, built himself an imposing Tudor house on Jewett Parkway, which stands in total opposition to the lithe lines of the Darwin Martin House Frank Lloyd Wright erected across the street a few years later.
        That corner, incidentally, also features one of Green and Wicks’ few whimsical designs, a miniature Swiss chalet.
Mayfair Lane
        Two years prior to Wicks’ death in 1919, Green formed a partnership with his son, Edward B. Green Jr. While the Genesee Building was the most noteworthy of their commercial projects, their most ambitious design was a residential one – Mayfair Lane, an entire street of Tudor-style English village row houses leading to a castle, where the junior Green resided.
        After his son passed away in 1933, Green continued practice, forming Green and James in 1936, then Green, James and Meadows in 1945. During this period, Green adopted a classical modernist style, flattening the architectural features into something of an institutional art deco, as can be seen on the state and federal courthouses in Niagara Square.
The Dayton Art Institute
        Hometown architects whose careers and output paralleled Green’s can be found in other cities such as Pittsburgh and Cleveland, UB architectural historian John Quinan reports. Nevertheless, Green’s activities weren’t limited exclusively to Buffalo. His designs can be found in Ithaca, Auburn, Olean, South Bend, Ind., and Scranton, Pa. Regarded as his greatest out-of-town structures are the classical cultural center in Toledo, Ohio, and his French Renaissance Dayton, Ohio, Art Institute.
        Perhaps the greatest recognition of his contributions came in 1938, when UB awarded him its highest award, the Chancellor’s Medal. Chancellor Samuel P. Capen, citing him as “an artist and master builder,” saw fit to add that he had “incalculably enriched the city … and dignified Buffalo in the eyes of the world.”

Some of Green’s Residential Designs
(A freshly discovered one on Google in parentheses
38 Argyle Park
181 Beard Ave.
36 Brantford Place
3 Colonial Circle
477 Delaware Ave.
485 Delaware Ave.
489 Delaware Ave.
499 Delaware Ave.
525 Delaware Ave.
786 Delaware Ave.
824 Delaware Ave.
834 Delaware Ave.
888 Delaware Ave.
1093 Delaware Ave.
1109 Delaware Ave.
1260 Delaware Ave.
1296 Delaware Ave.
371 Depew Ave.
20 Dorchester Road
27 Dorchester Road
73 Dorchester Road
(137 Dorchester Road)
343 Elmwood Ave.
528 W. Ferry St.
677 W. Ferry St.
680 W. Ferry St.
426 Franklin St.
469 Franklin St.
54 Highland Ave.
85 Highland Ave.
101 Jewett Parkway
124 Jewett Parkway
150 Jewett Parkway
147 Linwood Ave.
350 Linwood Ave.
424 Linwood Ave.
134 Morris Ave.
154 Morris Ave.
208 North St.
117 Parkside Ave.
133 Parkside Ave.
606 Parkside Ave.
5 Penhurst Park
27 Penhurst Park
33 Penhurst Park
111 Richmond Ave.
781 Richmond Ave.
106 Soldiers Place
180 Soldiers Place
180 Summer St.
257 Summer St.
263 Summer St.
295 Summer St.
307 Summer St.
33 Summit Ave.
45 Summit Ave.
135 Summit Ave.
17 Tudor Place
888 Delaware Ave., the Charles W. Goodyear House

Buffalo’s Legacy of Green Landmarks
        E. B. Green put his stamp on many corners of downtown Buffalo. His strongest impact was made on Niagara Square, where he followed up his design for the Buffalo Athletic Club (of which he was a member) with the well-mannered classical-modern forms of the federal and state courthouses and with his firm’s own offices next door to the BAC, fashioned as a small Venetian-style palazzo.
        Green’s other downtown structures include:
        Buffalo Central YMCA.
        Buffalo Police Headquarters.
        Erie County Jail.
        Dun Building.
        Marine Trust Building.
        Chamber of Commerce Building.
        Genesee Building (Hyatt Regency Hotel).
        Buffalo Savings Bank (Goldome).
        Market Arcade.
        Memorial Auditorium.
        Broadway Garage.
       
Green’s buildings elsewhere in Buffalo and its suburbs include:
        Albright-Knox Art Gallery.
        Buffalo Crematory.
        Calvary Church.
        Christian Church, City of Tonawanda.
Church of the Ascension Parish House.
City Hall, City of Tonawanda.
        Commodore Perry Housing Project.
        DuPont Technical Building.
        First Presbyterian Church.
Twentieth Century Club.
United Temple.
UB Main Street Campus: Lockwood Library, Clark Gym, Crosby Hall, Norton Hall, heating plant and service building.

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